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Q:  I don’t see a spring near my area on the map/site.  Can you tell me where a spring is in my area?

If there is not a spring near your area on the map or listed on this site anywhere, we do not currently have a listing for your area.  This is a perfect calling for you to become the person to locate the springs in your area!  Look for new audio/video to show up on this site soon to help you locate a spring in your area.  For now the best advice is to ask!  Ask anyone and everyone you can.  When you do find a spring, submit it here to let the community know!

Q: What is the best way to ascertain the quality of water from a spring to determine if it’s safe to drink or not?

Disclaimer: Please independently test all spring water before you make the decision to consume it. This website is simply a source for locating springs, we do not validate water safety. Read full disclaimer here.

In order to answer this question we must first define what is meant by “safe” or “unsafe”.

Typically we are referring to two separate subjects when we talk about the Safety of Water. The first is the issue of bacteria contamination, and the second of chemical contamination.

Water is of course a key component of all life on Earth, and whenever water is present there is the possibility of water “springing to life” with bacteria. This is why municipal systems “dis-infect” city water supplies.

They do this for a couple of reasons.

Often the water quality (because of the necessary quantities) that a town or city begins with is poor. This water is sourced often from surface water, such as rivers and lakes. Because this water is part of the eco-system it requires “sterilization”.

Many municipalities derive their water from a ground water (underground) sources, such as wells, which are waters that have been brought up from “below the eco-system”. Though this Water is “clean” with regard to bacterial contamination, it is a very difficult thing to reliably deliver this water to your tap without it becoming contaminated along the way.

Much of the United States water infrastructure was built during the Lincoln administration, and is today in a state of decay. Broken pipes underground, especially in the vicinity of sewage pipes are easily contaminated with pathogens. Chlorination is an attempt to combat this.

Chlorine kills the Organisms that are in the Water, rendering it clean with regard to pathogens, however this is now chemically contaminated Water.

Waters sourced from Natural Free Flowing Springs are from deep Aquifers, which are like massive underground lakes. The Waters found herein are free from pathogens and have been kept naturally cold, dark, and free from atmospheric oxygen for decades and often centuries or more.

These are premium waters, and this is why they are so zealously sought and exploited by the corporations that drill, pump, and bottle these sources.

When these companies (hint, they make things like soda and chocolate milk syrup) bottle these Waters they sterilize them with ozonation or ultraviolet light. This is not because these Waters Sources are contaminated, but rather because of contamination that can occur in the bottling, shipping, or storage processes.

In truth, Water sustainably and intelligently harvested from Natural Free Flowing Spring Sources is likely the only substance that a person will ever come into contact with in their lives that is not contaminated by Industrial and Nuclear Age pollution. Today, effectively the entire surface of the Earth has been contaminated by the circulation of synthetic chemical and radioactive molecules throughout and around the ecosystem.

Water from deep within protected Aquifers has been stored since before Human Industry and has been preserved in perfect incubation.

This Water is not only clean of chemical contamination, but also of bacterial contamination. For generations it has been kept cold, dark, and free of air, outside of the eco-system. These are the same kind of conditions we seek to create in our refrigerators to protect food and drink from bacterial contamination and proliferation.

When Water is gathered from spring sources, it is free of contamination, and can be stored this way for some time.

When bacterial contamination occurs in a spring, it is most often because this is not the true Spring Source, but rather what is known as a “Seep”. This is where water from a Spring Source is running beneath the ground and emerges from the ground somewhere down hill from the true Source. This could be a very short or vast distance.

When the weather is warm, or there is significant Human or Animal (farming) activity this water can be contaminated on its journey from the Source.

Waters from Seeps will often slow significantly or even cease when the weather becomes hot and dry. If the flow fluctuates dramatically at a Spring, it is a good indicator that this is a Seep. This does not mean the Water is not good, but that one would exercise some caution with regard to drinking it.

This Water may also fluctuate in temperature as well, which can be another indicator of a Seep.

Water from True Mountain Springs Sources are often far more consistent in flow rate and temperature.

For me, choosing a Water Source is a bit of an art. I consider first the location. If the area is Pristine, such as in the mountains or in national parks, I feel that the aquifer is much safer, and the ecology much healthier. This is important. If a Spring is found in a city or town, the possibility of contamination is more of a concern.

Second I feel that temperature is an important factor. I prefer Drinking Water from Cold Mountain Sources. If the Water is not coming to the surface Cold this is sometimes a reason to exercise caution.

While there are many Geothermal Hot Springs that are great Drinking Water Sources, tepid water is something that gives me pause.

This is hardly a rule however, as I have drunk from Springs in the Southwest that came from the ground at around 70 degrees F. These were great sources, and I felt comfortable because of their reputation.

In my own experience, the Reputation of a Spring Source is one of the most reliable ways to determine its quality. If a Spring Source is maintained by a town or even privately it is likely a safe source. Often you will find people there filling their bottles. Asking them about the Source will give you strong evidence of the safety of that Water. If they have drank from it for years, or even generations you can feel safe to drink it too!

It is not uncommon for a town to require a sign that tells you to “drink at your own risk”. This is a legal formality to protect the town or property owner from responsibility, and is not an indication of the Water Quality. In my experience, if a Town or Land Owner gets news of contamination (and many municipalities test their local springs regularly) the Spring will be closed temporarily or sometime even permanently (capped).

To summarize, there is no one reliable way to determine if a Spring Water Source is “safe” to drink, shy of complete chemical and biological analysis.

There are however some indicators for quality. These are things like the consistency of flow rate and temperature, the relative intactness of the area of the Source, how cold the water is, etc…

After a time this becomes very intuitive, and the art of discerning it becomes clear.

I have personally never experienced personally, nor have I heard a first hand account of anyone experiencing a negative result from consuming Water at the Source of any Spring.

Q: If I want to test my spring water, can you recommend an independent testing lab to send it to? What about home testing kits?

Most Towns and Cities have independent Water Testing Labs and they can test your Water for a fee. This is not something that I have ever done, and so cannot offer much advice here.

Q: Where can I get a good TDS meter? What should I look for?

TDS meters are simple and inexpensive devices that you can find easily on the internet. They start at about $15. There are many models that combine a thermometer, and this may be a good option for you. The device uses two electrodes, and anode and a cathode to measure the conductivity of Water (ability to conduct electricity) and converts this into a Parts Per Million (PPM) reading on the digital display.

This is a great meter to start with.

Q: Where can I get a good pH meter? What should I look for?

pH, or “Potential of Hydrogen” measures the acidity or alkalinity of Water. Distilled H2O is a Neutral pH of 7. Below this, from 7 down to 1 is acidic. Above this, from 7 up to 14 is alkaline.

This is a Logarithmic Scale, so each whole number represents a X10 in acidity or alkalinity. In other words, pH 8.5 is 10X more alkaline than pH 7.5.

There are many ways to test pH, ranging from Litmus Paper to complex and very high-end digital meters. For years I have used the pH minilab, and have had great experience with it. The initial investment was a bit high, but it has proven its value over the years.

A meter like this one will come with a “calibrating solution”. This will help you calibrate your meter to pH 7 before using it. This is an important step in getting an accurate reading.

Q: Where can I get a good temperature meter? What should I look for?

Thermometers (thermo-meters) are for measuring temperature. Just about any kitchen thermometer is adequate. On can be bought in a kitchen department store for less than $10. Many TDS and pH meters will come with one built in as a function.

While there is no specific temperature we are seeking (all springs vary), there is a Magick temperature called “the Anomaly Point” that we could imagine to be waters “peak quality level”. This is 39 degrees F, or 4 degrees C.

Many of us who are avid “Spring Jumpers” seek this temperature in our Springs as something of a Quest. It is uncommon to locate a source at this temperature, though the closer we approximate it the better!

As I mentioned above, some great Springs are considerably warmer. Hot Spring Jumping is just as rewarding as seeking Cold Water Springs, so a Thermometer that reads temperatures up to 200 Degrees F is helpful!

Q: What is the best way to store my water after I gather it? How long will it stay good for?

Here is the Golden Rule of Spring Water Storage. “Treat Your Water Like You Would A Wine!”

Ask yourself “Would I store a fine Wine in a plastic bottle? Would I store it in direct sunlight? Would I leave the cork off the bottle? Would I leave it in the back of a hot car?” Of course you wouldn’t, each of these would quickly ruin the Quality of the Wine.

So how would you store it? If you planned to use it relatively soon you might leave it somewhere shady and cool in the kitchen. If you intended to keep it for some time you would likely put it somewhere dark and cool, like the cellar.
You would of course keep it in glass, with a cork. You would keep it cool, and you would keep it in darkness.

The same is true of Water. With Water however, this is required not just for the quality with regards to its hydration properties, but also to keep it from “coming to life”, or in other words, from turning green with algae growth.

Remember that this Water has not been sterilized. It has not been bleached and killed off with Chlorine, with UV, with Ozone. It is intact and “Living”. If we want to store it we must remove from it the factors that promote the growth of the organisms inherently within it. We must protect it from Warmth, Light, and Oxygen.

When you plan to drink your Water it is not an issue for it to become warm, however for storage purposes, the cooler the better.

Q: Where can I get amber or high quality glass bottles to hold my spring water?

I have found Wonderful Glass bottles in many different places. The large glass “carboys” can be found or ordered from Home Brewing supply stores (whether physical or online). Great bottles can be found at recycling centers, as well as restaurants and wine bars. They throw out or recycle many bottles every week.

Yard Sales are another great place to find bottles at incredible values.

Antique shops often have amazing and interesting glass bottles as well.

Large Plastic Carboys can usually be gotten for a small deposit at shops that sell 5 gallon bottles of water. Simply pay the deposit ($5-$10), empty the bottle and keep it for your journeys to the spring. :)

There is a great manufacturer of BPA free plastic carboys at www.betterbottle.com

Q: Can I gather water from hot springs as well as cold springs?

Yes, in fact there are bottled Waters that are sourced from Hot Springs. Mountain Valley out of Arkansas comes to mind. There was once a popular brand known as Trinity that was also source from Geothermal Waters.

I have enjoyed the Water at many Hot Springs, though most of these have had a fairly high TDS. On occasion I have encountered low TDS Hot Springs (Deep Creek outside of LA comes to memory), though this is the exception not the rule. Often Hot Springs will have a TDS well over a thousand, even into the Tens of Thousands.

Q: The water from my spring changes to a green color after a week or so of collecting it in my bottles. Is this still safe to drink?

This is up to your discretion. If the Water in your bottles is turning green after a week is likely due to poor storage. By protecting your Water from Light, Heat, and Oxygen, you will greatly enhance its shelf life.

I like Glass bottles with Corks, wrapped in a blanket, vest, or towel. Think of it like a fine wine.

Q: If I travel far to get my spring water, does all the transportation damage it in some way?

The most optimal situation is to drink from a local spring where you live without the need to transport it. Of course most of us have not created the luxury of such simple living. Traveling with your Water is far less “damaging” than heat, light, and air is. The most important thing is to avoid leaving your water in a hot car, and to cover it from exposure to light.

What is the best way to treat my spring water if I’m unsure about the quality? (i.e., UV, hydrogen peroxide, filtering methods, etc.)

There are many options for treating Water that is unfit to drink. This is really not the scope of this website, and I will leave the liability for this answer to others.

Q: Is there a possibility of tapping a spring out? Should I be concerned with the amount of water I gather at my spring?

This Water is flowing around the clock, all the time. Issues with “tapping a spring out” are really issues that many bottlers face in their unnatural and deceptive Water “Mining” operations. Though they have been given permission to call their Waters “Spring”, most often these are “Bore Hole” drilled wells positioned near the original source. Laws have been changed regarding the legal definition of a “Spring” to allow for this.

These kinds of operations are drawing off of the aquifer itself, and therefore are endangering and depleting the stored Water Supply beneath.

When one gathers Water from the Source without pumping it, they are sustainably harvesting, and even protecting this pristine Water from the contamination that is inevitable once it leaves the Source. There is no concern about taking too much.

Q: How good is an artesian well vs. a spring? Is this a good alternative if I can’t find a spring in my area?

This is a complex question. When one has spent time with springs it becomes obvious that Water in the ecosystem moves through levels of “maturity”. Free Flowing High Altitude Spring Source Water with a Naturally Low TDS is the most “Matured Water”. It is “Ripe” for consumption, much like a fruit when ripe is much more nourishing than one picked prematurely.

Interestingly, though a well might be located adjacent to a Source like this, and drilled into the same aquifer, often it will pull up water that is “hard” or in other words has a high TDS.

Well water is often “hard” and “scaly” (leaves a residue), and for this reason not an optimal Water. However, I have seen great exceptions to this. There are those blessed with incredible wells with very low TDS Water. If you have access to a source like this, then it is a great alternative.

Water pumped through machinery and piping is degraded by this process, which is a drawback from most Artesian Wells.

What is great about a well is that this is water from the ecosystem, and is that much closer to water directly from the Earth.

Q: I’ve heard that if I boil my spring water off in a pot and it leaves behind a white residue that this is unsafe to drink. Is this true?

Again, we must define “unsafe”. The residue is the Mineral that has a higher volatilization temperature than Water. As the water moves from a liquid to a gas, it evaporates, leaving behind the minerals that were in it. White mineral residue is often a sign of Calcium. It is thought that this “inorganic” calcium may be detrimental over the course of Years and decades. It is possible that it could deposit itself in the tissue matrix of the body.

The presence of Calcium or other biologically friendly Minerals in Water does not make them unsafe in the short term. I often choose fresh High TDS Water over a stale or cooked Low TDS Water.

Q: If a spring is high in sulfur, is it safe to drink? What about iron or calcium?

All of these minerals, as found in Spring Waters, are safe to drink. For countless millennia these were considered “therapeutic mineral compositions” and were part of the healing that happened for people when they visited mineral springs around the world. My current opinion is that these waters are therapeutic, and not really for every day drinking. I seek out low TDS waters when choosing my daily drinking Water.

It is like many Herbal Medicines which are great short term for specific therapeutic effects, but are not really meant to be used daily for years.

It is helpful to see Mineral Waters like medicines, they are for short term use.

Q: If my spring has a high TDS (like 250-1000), what is the best way to filter it?

Gravity Powered Carbon Block filters (like Brita or Pur filters) are not powerful enough to remove these minerals. Reverse Osmosis or Distillation is required. RO is essentially a “mechanical distillation” and requires a considerable amount of pressure. This is why they are connected, inline, to home municipal water systems. With watered that has been gathered by hand, filtration through RO is not really an option.

Distillation would remove the minerals, but leave you with a “burnt” and tasteless Water that one might be challenged to find hydrating.

Q: What is the best material I should use for dispensing my water? What about ceramic crocks with plastic spigots? What is the ideal dispenser?

Glass is always a great option. It is non-porous (no air gets in) and it is non-reactive. I usually pour my Water right out of my glass jugs. There exists “tippers” designed assist pouring water from glass carboys, though these are somewhat out of fashion today.

Ceramic Water dispensers are great. These are the ones that sit on a countertop or stand, and accept a carboy upside down on top. These usually have a plastic spout on them, which is not ideal. Still, the greater part of the container is ceramic, so there is very little plastic in contact with the water. Often when using these, I put something over the carboy keep the water from being overexposed to light, and to help it retain its temperature. The ceramic container is quite good at keeping the water inside cool.

I have experimented with some “clay egg” vessels. These are egg shaped containers made from porous material. The premise is that as water moves through the porous container to the outside of the vessel, evaporation takes place. This is of course a heat consuming, or cooling process. As the water inside cools, it becomes denser and slowly descends in a spiraling motion to the bottom of the container. This displaces the warmer water, spiraling it up to the top. It perfuse through the walls, evaporating, and creating more cooling.

This type of vessel ensures that the water inside is always in movement (albeit subtle) and therefore never stagnates. This is a great idea, though most of the cheaper versions of these are Terra Cotta, and flavor your Water like clay strongly for years. There are higher end versions done in unglazed ceramics, which look very promising.

My preference is galls bottles with cork tops, and this seems to be the more efficient and effective method for me. Experience shows that metal lids like those on a glass mason jar flavor the water with Iron (the taste is rusty or bloody). Many plastic and metal tops have a styrene insert to seal the bottles. For this reason those types of capped bottles should be left upright to keep water from contacting the styrene.

While Stainless Steel bottles are very popular today, I am not a fan of Water stored in Metal and like to avoid these containers. I can see however that they are an improvement on many types of plastic resins. Stainless is not strongly reactive, though there is some concern today that they may slowly leach toxic Nickel. Stainless steel is Iron based and its ferro-magnetic qualities may also affect the H2O molecule. For this reason glass and high-quality ceramic are much better options when possible.

Q: Is it possible that my local spring could be contaminated with fluoride or other ground poisons? How concerned should I be and how can I find out?

Answered in this question.

Q: What is the difference between the blue and red pushpins on the map?

Blue pushpins are for cold springs and red pushpins are for hot springs. Hot springs are used for soaking in and many resorts are built around hot springs.